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Electronic ignition remains one of the typical malfunctions associated with the workability of water heaters. Sometimes the ignition works but some days will not even light.
You might be holding doubts on what could have gone wrong with your water heater, making it stop lighting.
Well, what we need to do is to establish the causatives for such an issue and then understand what could be the possible solutions.
Besides, we need to understand whether contacting an expert is advisable to save your money and nerves or not. This article will therefore try to equip you with necessary information on identifying the possible causatives and possible solutions.
Reasons for Electronic Ignition water heater won’t light problem.
Nowadays, digital units are designed to use electricity, different from previous models that highly depended on standing pilots. Well the last options weren’t pointless based on the relevancy; however, it’s not as effective as electronic ignition.
The reasons for this art are that the standing pilots need a consistent gas flow, and consume a high amount of BTU. Additionally, the bill of your daily gas bills will not be suitable for you; hence, you will be spending too much on gas bills per month.
With electronic ignition, the real functionality mostly happens with the aid of the electric current. However, this is necessary only when it’s required and without further requirement for continuous gas flow.
Therefore, if you recently installed the unit and realized that electronic won’t light, below are some of the possible reasons for the problem:
1. Defective igniter
Most of these units are equipped with igniting units. Whenever these devices are not in good condition, there will be no light. To scrutinize this version for reliability, seeking the help of an expert can solve the puzzlement with you.
A specialist will have to check and determine whether your water heater igniter is receiving enough voltage to operate the unit.
Once the issue is clear and the water heater pilot fails to light, an experienced technician can recommend going for a replacement.
2. Bad spark electrode
A good number of electronic ignition water heaters come with spark electrodes that trigger the authentic ignition. It incredibly operates by intermittent high-voltage sparks or sending signals.
The pilot will only be lighted when the signal is attained. So, if the water heater igniter fails to spark, a replacement is the best way to go; contact a contractor if you can’t do it yourself.
3. Faulty pressure sensor
Sometimes the pressure sensor can be faulty as well, making your heater water to stop lighting. Normally, the sensor is closed whenever the gas flow for work at hand is enough, the unit will initiate the ignition.
Therefore, if it doesn’t receive the required airflow, the ignition will not light at all.
If you are unable to fix the issue for yourself, I would recommend contacting an experienced contractor. He/she will make you understand the possible reason for the faulty component; maybe it’s not receiving any gas at all.
The contract will make you understand the root of the problem so that you can know how to tackle it.
4. Problematic thermocouple
The thermocouple plays a vital role in electronic ignition water heaters. A worn-out thermocouple could be another reason for your failed water heater, making it won’t light. A thermocouple acts mainly as the pilot flame’s detector.
This means that if it isn’t unable to detect anything, probably the ignition will not occur, and consequently, you won’t see any light. It must detect airflow for it to initiate the ignition process.
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Simple steps for fixing an electronic ignition water heater won’t light problem
Before calling a contractor to check your nit, I would advise to first try out this guide.
Step 1. Make sure whether the socket or breaker box operates. There might be issues arising from the electricity. Therefore, try to check and confirm if everything is in place with you, a contractor can spot unseen issues.
Step 2. Check and ensure that all components of the water heater are properly attached to their specific places. This involves all the screws and wires.
Step 3. Prepare required tools and materials before calling a contractor. What you need to put in place are things like dusters and water. You should therefore ensure everything is around in the place.
If you are satisfied with everything, but still your water heater pilot isn’t lighting, seeking the help of an expert is always advisable because they understand better about electrical and gas systems.
Therefore, there will be no mistakes regarding carbon monoxide leaks, gas, among other possible risks that might come your way.
You’re supposed to put off the water heater, immediately if it starts to make suspicious noises. Before you do anything, turning off the unit is necessary for your own safety.
More so, you need to make sure that older people and children aren’t close to the water heater igniters.
What do you do when your water heater won’t light?
Frequently asked questions
Is it possible to bypass a thermocouple of my water heater?
Yes, it’s possible, what you only need to do is to tilt the switch wire and detach the thermocouple from the unit. You can use an 8mm wrench and pull aside the valve housing by the aid of a 13mm socket wrench
How can I know that I am having a faulty thermocouple?
If the flame doesn’t light at all, but you have confidence the gas is on, the pilot tube might be problematic. However, when the flame lights but goes off immediately after releasing the gas trigger after holding it for approximately 30 seconds, it’s possible that your thermocouple is defective.
How much can I pay for a thermocouple replacement?
The price ranges from $150-$250 to go for a new thermocouple.
It’s advantageous to mention that all the above reasons are typical, and finding an experienced contractor can make you understand the efficacy and serviceability of your water heater. Remember, this is something you can do on your own using the above simple guide.
However, it’s advisable to opt for a contractor because we have some issues triggered by the fault of the manufacturer, mostly when you invest in a low-quality unit.