Updated July 2026 · Links checked July 2026.
Connecting a TV to an AV receiver confuses people for one understandable reason: the signal flows both ways. Video goes receiver → TV, but TV audio (from built-in apps and the tuner) needs to come back TV → receiver — and that return trip is what the ARC port exists for. Get one cable into the right two ports and the whole system usually just works.
Short answer: run one High Speed HDMI cable from the receiver’s HDMI OUT (ARC/eARC) port to the TV’s HDMI port labelled ARC/eARC — not just any TV input. Plug your sources (console, streamer, player) into the receiver’s HDMI inputs. Then enable CEC on both devices and set the TV’s speakers to “audio system / receiver.” Done.
What plugs into what
| Cable | From | To |
|---|---|---|
| Main HDMI | Receiver HDMI OUT (ARC/eARC) | TV port labelled ARC/eARC |
| Console / streamer / Blu-ray | Each device’s HDMI out | Receiver HDMI inputs |
| Optical (fallback only) | TV optical out | Receiver optical in |
Setup, step by step
- Find the ARC ports on both ends. Only one HDMI port on the TV carries the ARC label; the receiver’s is its main HDMI OUT. This single detail causes most “no sound” setups — a non-ARC TV port shows video happily and returns no audio.
- Use a real cable. High Speed (HDMI 1.4+) minimum; a certified Ultra High Speed cable removes every doubt for 4K/eARC systems and costs a few dollars.
- Plug sources into the receiver, not the TV. The receiver is the hub: sources in, one cable out to the TV. (Exception: if you have more sources than receiver inputs, spare sources can go to TV inputs — their audio returns via ARC.)
- Enable CEC on both devices. Every brand renames it — Anynet+ (Samsung), Bravia Sync (Sony), SimpLink (LG), Onkyo/Denon just say HDMI CEC/Control. ARC rides on CEC, so it must be on at both ends.
- Point the TV’s audio at the receiver. TV audio settings → speakers/output → “Audio system / receiver / ARC.” While there, set digital output to PCM if you ever hit silence or dropouts, and Bitstream/Auto once everything works, if you want the TV’s apps sending surround formats.
- Test both directions. Play a source through the receiver (video should appear on TV), then a TV app (audio should come from the receiver’s speakers). Both working = done.
- If TV audio will not come back: re-check the ARC port label first, then work our HDMI ARC troubleshooting sequence. The stable fallback for stubborn old hardware is an optical cable from TV to receiver — you lose Atmos and CEC volume control, you gain reliability.
ARC vs eARC in one paragraph
ARC carries stereo and compressed surround (Dolby Digital) — fine for most TV apps. eARC (HDMI 2.1-era) has the bandwidth for lossless formats and Atmos from TV apps, plus a more robust handshake. If both TV and receiver list eARC, use those ports with an Ultra High Speed cable and enjoy the extra stability; if only one end has it, it gracefully falls back to ARC behavior.
TV-to-receiver FAQ
Which HDMI port do I use on the TV for a receiver?
The one physically labelled ARC or eARC – usually one specific port among several. Any other input shows the receiver’s video fine but cannot return TV audio, which is the most common setup mistake.
Why is there no sound from TV apps through my receiver?
Three usual causes in order: the cable is in a non-ARC TV port, CEC is disabled on one device, or the TV’s speaker output is still set to TV speakers. Fix those three and ARC almost always comes alive.
Do I need eARC?
Only for lossless audio and Atmos from the TV’s own apps. Standard ARC handles stereo and Dolby Digital 5.1, which covers most TV viewing. If both devices support eARC, use it – the handshake is more reliable too.
Can I just use an optical cable instead?
Yes – optical from TV to receiver is the dependable fallback and predates ARC. It cannot carry Atmos or lossless formats and does not sync volume control, but it never argues with CEC either.